Do you remember a famous Eastern aphorism “Be careful with your wishes – sometimes they come true”? At first this is how I was going to title this story. But still it is about sailing in Croatia, its cities, islands and people…
Once upon a time my sweetheart served in the Navy. From time to time he was telling me those full of romantic stories about the sea, dolphins, sails and the wind puffing to your face.
And so, what would you present to such a man for his anniversary – a watch again or a new mobile phone? I’ve chosen a sailing.
He has never been to this country of plenty islands and the purest Adriatic Sea before. It might be the best spot for sailing or yachting in Europe. And the architecture of the old-time cities bears the impress of the former Venetian domination – this will make your onshore presence so pleasant. What a great idea!
luxurious travel under the sails is absolutely new for us, and the sailing in Croatia is somewhat specific. Here you can find more than a thousand of islands with preserved towns, established by the ancient Greeks or Romans. The shore is arrayed with Dubrovnik, Korcula, Hvar, Pula and Rovine. So many places to see!
But the speed of a sail boat is terminal and depends directly on the wind, so I had to read something about the winds, prevailing in this region. And of course I had to keep silent with regard to the forthcoming sailing, otherwise it won’t be a surprise anymore.
In winter I ordered a sailing yacht Bavaria 33 with a captain in Dalmacia Charter. It took the whole spring to develop a route. So here was the final plan: two days in hotel – historical Villa Sveti Petar in Trogir. Then a week of sailing in the Adriatic Sea and coming back to the villa. We were definitely lucky with the villa and its mistress Anna-Maria. This Croatian girl was like a guardian angel for us awhile.
So, in the middle of August set out to Split. Ancient Trogir. I admire such window views and the church-bells chime in the morning.
When you live in the historical center, you are able to investigate the city both day and night. Excursionists are gone and most of the tourists are sleeping… Four in the morning is the best time to blend into the historical atmosphere almost all alone.
But the time runs fast and two days in Trogir soon ended. For some time we left our welcoming Villa Sveti Petar. And today my big secret must be disclosed by saying that we are going no less than sailing right here, in Croatia, and right now! And meanwhile I told Victor that we have a couple of hours for an unhurried walk through the city, before we will be picked up and taken away.
How about a glass of white wine?
We walked, swam, took photos…
We wandered in the marine by noon to take some pictures of Trogir from the opposite coast and in the meantime to feast our eyes with white-winged yachts. “Just imagine to sail on one of them somewhere” – said Victor.
- Give me a kiss. – I said. – This is your present!
Happy upcoming Birthday, sweetheart! One of these snow-white beauties is yours for the whole week, my captain!
This is it! Something that I was cherishing for almost a year became true, a certain line was drawn – and only the sea spread in front of us.
Legal formalities took no longer than ten minutes. The team and the captain were introduced to each other. And there it was – our Bavaria. It was called Dispet, which means a naughty. Luckily, it didn’t put us to any troubles.
Our captain’s name was Denny – such a nice young man. I hope an experienced sailor. And now we were drifting apart from Trofir.
Let the new life begin! They – Victor and Denny tied sailor’s knots, set and dip the sails.
You may sail for hours on a sailing boat to an island, that seems close at hand, and they was tacking.
Guys harbored and heaved up at some hidden bays with the water of amazing colors, berthed to the old-time quays, full of the similar yachts.
My business was photo shooting without falling over the side, provoking the massive rescue mission of the sheik’s personal photograph.
Moreover, from time to time I took on the slushy’s heat, preparing fragrant coffee and breakfast to our small team at the galley.
Bavaria 33 is a small boat, but it is equipped with all that requires. There are two cabins: one is for the captain and the second – for guests.
What would you need first, resolving to sailing in Croatia? – To bring about friendly relations with your captain. It’s like the destiny! But of course you should also make an effort. It is important with regard to the microclimate, fulfilling such an enclosed space as a ten-meters yacht. Your impressions are fully depend on the captain – whether you will passionately be flying with all sails set or dragging on-engine.
And what is the most wonderful and memorable? – To go under the sails and listen to the sounds of the sea and sea gulls cries instead of the diesel engine roar. Although, from time to time your yacht will rip at a 45 degrees angle and the waves will attack the illuminators – this is dreadful! And if you are liable to sea-sickness, your sailing might be a real torture. That’s why you should wisely provide yourself with Dramina. After all, this is what you wanted.
Here is Hvar already. In this city on the same-named island there is a well-preserved the biggest old-time Croatian square – mixture of baroque and renaissance.
These tiny streets seem to lead almost to the sky. You are rising higher and higher to get this well preserved medieval bastille – Spanjola Fortress. A short break and back down again to Dispet.
Sailing in Adriatic Sea gives you the ability to see several interesting from the historical point of view spots at the same time. Island and city Korcula is a competitor of Dubrovnik. In our opinion it is an exaggeration. The city is extremely beautiful from the seaside, but it is not wonderful inside.
However the steaks with gorgonzola at the embankment may strike any foodie!
We circled round the island on a way to Vela Luka. This is a really beaten with the time and the sea city. But even in August they serve delicious and extremely fresh oysters from Ston. You peacefully seat at the open lounge of restaurant (konoba) “Casablanca”, admiring, inhaling the sea air and drinking cold white wine Posip. Here they served the oysters. Such a joy!
And again the Hvar island, but now the town Stari Grad. This rare visited by the tourists town was a real surprise for us. Guess how it was called in ancient times?
It is nothing less than the Greek Faros. It is different from those, where the famous lighthouse stood once. As well as Alexandria, there were several Faros. But this is the place where the Greek philosopher Aristotle was born. It is a city of amazing beauty. Here, indeed, but not in the majestic palace of Diocletian in Split, you may feel the nobleness of time and ancient stones.
And again sailing, and again waves and sea!
But once without the discussion we decided that it’s time to step on a dry land. We expanded our map on the following morning and noticed that we will reach Trogir by the evening…
We have to ask Denny if he took umbrage at these «old sea dog»? Our captain was remarkably polite, answering that his wife would be really happy seeing him before the due time.
Well, that’s just where all the modern yachts equipment were come in handy. We used wi-fi. Don’t you think that Trogir is full of vacant rooms during the peak season? And at Villa Sveti Petar we were awaiting a day after. We wrote an email and a half of an hour later Anna-Maria replied: «We look forward to see you about nightfall».
And finally we noticed our beloved Trogir on the horizon.
Farewell to Dispet and Denny. The earth is dancing underfoot for a while, but across the stout stony walls of Sveti Petar it will soon pass. Unexpectedly we got the best room at the villa – other rooms were occupied. Just after we closed the door of the new room we felt the happiest moment of the whole trip.
And now we are ready to dissolve our common and main secret.
Sailing in Croatia – is incredibly beautiful! Sometimes blue, sometimes turquoise water, snowy sails are cracking in the wind, you are free like a bird, and white sea-foam and salty splashes into your face!
It is awesome even in the evening, when several hundreds of snowy beauties pose for the public.
The music is everywhere and the air is full of inviting flavor of the tasty food from the seaside. And you are sitting at your yacht with candles and a bottle of wine, smiling to each other and comparing notes about the spent day.
Tourists are wandering around the embankment, sitting on the sidelines of this romantic fairytale. Maybe someday they will also choose sailing.
The sailing is unthinkably beautiful – especially from a land. No one ever knows that you are a bit dingy, a bit unshaven, a bit tired and getting not enough sleep, when you philosophically sit with a glass of wine, before blending in with this crowd on shore.
Later in the evening after the city walk you return to your beautiful, gently rolling on the waves boat and spend a sleepless night owing to the crew on Norwegian choppers on the left side and Germany burgers on the right. And if you happened to find yourself between two Italian yachts, honestly, you’d better find a sleeping accommodation somewhere on land. In the morning you will find your neighbors fallen asleep where they chattered.
The yachting – is somewhat a backpacking (but a little expensive). If it is your staff, you will definitely like yachting.
Yes, dreams come true, and somehow our desire to get to Machu Picchu is not so compulsive. I’d better wish a castle at Burgundian depths.