Pietro di Bernardone was a successful silk merchant in Assisi, Umbria. Like every normal man and businessman, he wanted to have a son who would continue the family business letting his father relax under the tender sun of Italy when time and age would demand their tribute. But his wife, a French noblewoman, Pica de Bourlemont, gave birth exclusively to girls. There were already six of them, when upon his return from another business trip to Provence, France, Pietro found out about the birth of his first son. History is silent on how many months the father was absent.
Pietro was so happy that he named his boy Francesco (Francis) because he adored France. Apparently, France was a brilliant country even in the 12th century. Francis grew to be a smart, fun, and good-looking boy, very attractive to the girls, and his father’s wealth made this attractiveness irresistible. The young man had nothing against such a destiny and was enjoying the life of a rich loafer until his father put him to work in their shop. In this, Francis was also successful. It was no wonder, because most of his buyers were women.
Streets of Assisi, Perugia, Italy.
Streets of Assisi, Perugia, Italy.
Then came a war, captivity, illness, and another war. At some point, Francis started to feel that something was wrong with his life. It lacked meaning and purpose. Little by little, he realized that he didn’t want to be rich. He wanted to be poor like Jesus Christ, and he had to bring as many people as he could back to the way of Christ.
Francis renounced his father and his patrimony, traded his rich clothes for a cloak and a staff, and went to the vicinity of Assisi to talk with people about penance, brotherly love, and peace. Later, he exchanged his clothes for a brown robe with a hood (cappuccio in Italian), a white cord as a belt, and sandals. Brown and white, the mix that now is known to every coffee fan. This is cappuccino. When Francis got permission from the Pope to create a new religious order of poor monks, this brown and white outfit became their “uniform.” The center of Franciscans was the Porziuncola, a little chapel of St. Mary of the Angels near Assisi. Francis lived, preached, and died in a hut near this chapel. Today, it is covered by the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli.
The Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli, Assisi, Perugia, Italy.
The Porziuncola in the Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli.
What about Francis’ father? I think he wasn’t happy with the fact that his son lived in a hut, worked for peasants for food, talked with animals, levitated, and raised the dead. If he had known that his own name would live on in history thanks to his son, and that his son would become one of the patron saints of Italy, and the city of Assisi would be a world-famous religious (and touristic) center, and even an enormous city in distant America would be named after his son, maybe he would have changed his mind. But maybe not. Like every good businessman and as a father he wanted only two things: to transfer his family business to the hands of the son, and to marry all the daughters successfully and with a good dowry.
When you park your car near the foot of the hill where the city of Assisi is located (GPS of the comfortable pay parking car lot (43.065876, 12.618932) and walk up the stairs, you will find yourself at the Via Borgo Aretino. This is the way to a temple, the Basilica di San Francesco d’Assisi. This basilica was built after canonization of Francis in 1228 on the top of the hill that was called the “Hill of Hell.” In those times, it was a place for the execution of criminals. Of course, Pope Gregory IX couldn’t build a temple on a place with such an unholy name, therefore the hill was renamed the “Hill of Paradise.” Do you feel how thin the border is between hell and paradise? Now, when you go along the Via Borgo Aretino, you go up to heaven.
The Basilica di S. Chiara.
The Basilica di San Francesco d’Assisi, Assisi, Perugia, Italy.
The Rocca Maggiore.
Assisi is a very clean and cozy city in cappuccino style: white walls of houses and brown roofs. Depending on the time of the day, the color of the walls changes from white to rosy. Here, you will not find shabby facades so typical for almost every city of Italy. From the first step, you understand that this city is far from poor, and property prices can’t be low here. The way to the temple is full of restaurants, cafes, and souvenir shops with items connected to the theme of Franciscans. The citizens of Assisi adore their saint but prefer not to follow his precepts. It is understandable. Who wants to walk in sandals year around in a region that sometimes has snow?
A road to the temple. Assisi, Perugia, Italy.
The map of Assisi. Click to enlarge.
It must be said that deviation from the principles of poverty among followers of St. Francis started already during his lifetime. When he returned from Egypt and Syria, where he tried to christen a sultan, he found that some of his brother monks not only had good foot wear, but houses too. He was upset. No, he was so furious that he tried to destroy one house, but quickly understood that he was just wasting his time. There were and still are few people in the world who are able to settle voluntarily for only robe and sandals even if the climate is mild enough to allow it.
Several years ago, I stayed in a hotel in the city of Netanya, Israel. One evening, there was a problem with Wi-Fi in my room and I went down to the lobby to check email and social media. A group of young people (25-35 years old) did the same on the neighboring divan. They were well dressed and well equipped, chatting or emailing in their iPhones and iPads and shining with very good wristwatches. “Young businessmen,” I thought. “Probably, they came in for a conference.” At least, they looked just like that.
Next morning, when I was eating in a breakfast room together with numerous guests (this hotel was big), several young monks entered the hall. They wore brown robes with hoods, white cords as a belts, and sandals. Wow, real Franciscans! Pilgrims! Beggars! However, they were so stylish. It was their finest hour. Everyone’s eyes were on them, especially those of the women.
Then I realized they were my yesterday’s “businessmen.” Apparently, iPhones were under their brown robes.
If you are a Christian, you should visit Assisi, the Basilica di San Francesco d’Assisi, and the Basilica di Santa Chiara. And don’t forget to look at the place were St. Francis lived, preached, and died: his favorite chapel, the Porziuncola that is covered by the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli. It is located outside of the walls of Assisi, on the neighboring field (GPS: 43.055821, 12.579276).
If you don’t believe in God, you still should visit Assisi, the Basilica di San Francesco d’Assisi, the Basilica di Santa Chiara, the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli, and take a stroll along the cozy streets of the brown and white city, so untypical for Italy.
The inner yard of the Basilica di San Francesco d’Assisi.
The city of Assisi, Perugia, Italy.
Rick Steves about Assisi (two minutes).
More about Italy:
If You Are Lazy, Don’t Visit Bergamo, Italy!
Hadrian’s Villa, Villa d’Este, and Tivoli are Three Different Planets! The Last is the Worst!
Museo Borghese, Roma: 100 percent Concentration of Beauty
June 13, 2018 at 9:52 am
Beautiful place
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June 13, 2018 at 9:54 am
It is.
Thank you.
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June 13, 2018 at 10:22 am
Beautiful. Assissi is not on my next visit list, but surely will be on my bucket list
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June 13, 2018 at 10:42 am
I hope you’ll realize this goal.
Many thanks.
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June 13, 2018 at 12:05 pm
Well done, Victor. There’s a great deal to see and appreciate in Assisi, in addition to the Basilica. There’s good food, too. Your piece is thoroughly enjoyable and informative.
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June 13, 2018 at 2:11 pm
Thanks a lot, Brad.
Culture, history, food, people, and of course the weather – this is Italy, one of the best countries in the world.
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June 13, 2018 at 12:07 pm
Beautiful photos of a beautiful town.
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June 13, 2018 at 2:14 pm
Exactly, Debra, well said. Assisi is such an unusual city for Italy, but it’s still Italian.
Thank you.
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June 13, 2018 at 12:41 pm
Beautiful setting and basilica. I need to visit. California has statues of St. Francis at most of the missions.
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June 13, 2018 at 2:17 pm
Moreover, California has a big city named after him.
Thank you.
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June 18, 2018 at 11:04 am
I should have mentioned that since I lived there for some time!
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June 13, 2018 at 12:41 pm
I always learn something when I read your posts, Victor. The photos are an added treat.
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June 13, 2018 at 2:21 pm
Thank you, Anneli.
I can say the same about your blog posts.
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June 13, 2018 at 2:45 pm
Thank you. That’s how blogging should be.
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June 13, 2018 at 2:39 pm
I love historical pictures and writings so this post was the type of thing I enjoy a lot. The story was very interesting and the pictures were beautiful. Thank you for sharing it. I look forward to reading more of your posts.
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June 13, 2018 at 2:44 pm
Thank you, Casandra (what a beautiful name!). I’ll do my best to meet your expectations.
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June 13, 2018 at 2:59 pm
Beautifully captured, Victor! Thank you for the RS video. I have traveled with his tour group a couple of times, France and Spain.
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June 13, 2018 at 10:52 pm
Many thanks, Amy.
I think Rick showed Assisi superb.
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June 13, 2018 at 4:33 pm
I really enjoyed the post. I once did a painting that hangs in our entry hall called “Modern Monk’s Cell.” It is based on a photo I took of a monk at Assisi talking on his cell phone.
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June 13, 2018 at 10:55 pm
He-he. So you know what I am talking about.
Thank you.
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June 14, 2018 at 12:41 am
This is a fascinating story of a man whose appearance and story had inspired so many things, from the coffee and milk drink many people around the world love, to a city in the US West Coast that is home to some of the world’s biggest companies. Now you make me want to visit Assisi, Victor.
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June 14, 2018 at 5:56 am
It is my main goal, to show people that Italy has not only Rome and Venice for visiting. I don’t know another country wich has so many historical places. France is on the second place.
Many thanks, Bama.
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June 14, 2018 at 2:04 am
Love your photos. Assisi is a fascinating city! ❤
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June 14, 2018 at 5:50 am
It is, and I am glad that I was able to convey it.
Thank you, Ishita.
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June 15, 2018 at 12:11 am
We cycled in Umbria and I had a hard time keeping on the road for all the stunning beauty. A wonderful narrative and pnhotographic tour os Assisi.
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June 15, 2018 at 6:54 am
Thank you, Sue.
Sometimes, I think there is no place in this world where you have not been yet. And it’s great. You are lucky.
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June 15, 2018 at 12:46 pm
We have been very fortuante Victor that is for certain. We have not been to any of the Scandanavian countries so that is high on our list.
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June 17, 2018 at 1:49 pm
Beautiful Victor and I liked the story – didn’t realize all he had and what he gave up to live the life he led.
We were in a place nearby not so long ago: Cortona. It’s a beautiful region.
Frank (bbqboy)
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June 17, 2018 at 11:34 pm
Many thanks, Frank.
Next time in Umbria don’t forget to look at Assisi.
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June 18, 2018 at 8:45 pm
Beautiful Victor!
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June 19, 2018 at 6:02 am
Thank you, Leo.
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June 22, 2018 at 1:17 pm
Stunning place and beautifully written. We’ll be adding this to our list for sure.
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June 22, 2018 at 11:08 pm
That’s great. I am sure you will get unforgettable impression.
Thank you.
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June 24, 2018 at 4:18 pm
Assisi is such a special place. I grew up going to a Franciscan boy’s school and we visited there when I was 13, camping in olive groves on the side of the hill. It was magical.
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July 18, 2018 at 5:34 pm
beautiful!!
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July 18, 2018 at 11:10 pm
Thank you.
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August 11, 2018 at 5:39 am
I’m lucky to have stumbled upon your post about the City of Assisi and St. Francis of Assisi with stunning photos. Cheers!
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August 11, 2018 at 6:25 am
I’m glad for you. Many thanks, Teddy.
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August 22, 2018 at 4:22 am
Beautiful pictures, now I really want to visit this city!
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August 22, 2018 at 4:54 am
Many thanks, Dudy. I’m glad that I could convince you.
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August 24, 2018 at 2:51 am
Great post!
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August 24, 2018 at 4:10 am
Thank you.
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September 6, 2018 at 7:57 am
So beautiful! ♡
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September 6, 2018 at 9:40 am
Thanks a lot, Janja.
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October 25, 2018 at 4:00 pm
Victor, your blog is ASTOUNDING! Your writing is wonderful, and your photos are absolutely gorgeous. Thank you for taking the time to create these posts and share all of these beautiful places with us.
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October 27, 2018 at 12:37 pm
Thanks a lot, Heide. I just love to write and take pictures.
Thank you again for reading and commenting.
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December 11, 2018 at 9:19 am
Love this post Victor. I went as a 13-year-old and we camped in a tent in an olive grove. It’s such a peaceful place.
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July 2, 2020 at 12:55 pm
Victor your Article is amazing it describes my hometown in an amazing way. I run some tours in town since I work as guide here, next time you are in town sign up for one of my tours : https://www.italyaroma.com/the-tours
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July 2, 2020 at 1:04 pm
Thank you, Allessandro.
Your website is superb!
Good luck in your business.
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