In 1938, the Portuguese gave the village of Monsanto the title of “the most Portuguese village of Portugal.” It is strange. During this visit to Portugal, we drove about 1.500 km exploring the historic places of Idanha-a-Velha and other central provinces of Portugal, and never saw anything similar to this “typical” Portuguese village. All other Portuguese villages and towns, at least in these regions, are made of white stone from roofs to sidewalks.
Monsanto Village is unique both for Portugal and Europe. The village seems not to have changed since medieval times. It is a museum like the Belgian town Bruges. I’d say this is the most NON-typical village in Portugal.
Monsanto means “sacred mountain.” Here, Mother Nature played with the landscape a lot and as a result we were left with very unearthly scenery with giant stones lying here and there. It’s safe to say that nature, rather than man, did some work on the construction of houses. Thanks to these boulders, you often had a ready-made wall or two of your future house and sometimes a roof too. All that was left to do was to build the missing walls. It came out very picturesque, solid, and inexpensive.
Since people used the same type of stones, only smaller, for the building of their houses, the village almost looks as if it grew into the boulders on its own like a plant sprouting small stones to fill in the gaps between the big ones. Trolls from fairy tales could live in such houses, not people. Probably, because of that, some parts of the village look as though they have been taken directly from fantasy films. I am sure you could make one of the series of Lord of the Rings right in Monsanto Village without extra set decorations.
We arrived here to look at all these streets, passages, and houses, but did not know that a surprise was waiting for us—the wonderful ruins of the Templar fortress on the very top of Monsanto Mountain.
After the liberation of these lands from the Moors, King Alfonso I of Portugal wanted to preserve and defend his new possessions. What was the most reliable protection in those times? Of course, the Templars, and the king donated the lands to the Order of the Temple.
“Alfonso, king of remarkable Portucalense, son of Henry and Queen D. Teresa and grandson of the great and illustrious Emperor of Hispania, for us to master Galdino and all the brothers of the Knights Templar who are in my kingdom, I make a wide and giving very strong in the region of Idanha [-a-Velha] and Monsanto with the limits: Following the course of the river and between Erges my kingdom and the ‘legions’ to enter the [river] Tagus and the other party following the course of water [river] Zêzere River which also enters the river Tagus (…).” (Letter of Donation on November 30, 1165.)
The brothers of the Knights Templar began to build the fortress on the top of the hill, but after seven years, all the fields and the castle were given to the Order of Santiago. The Monsanto castle had a glorious war history; however, it was destroyed, not during a siege, but accidentally as a result of a gunpowder storage explosion in 1814. The explosion caused significant damage, and the castle forever stopped its military activity. However, the military forces left it only in 1853.
The way to Monsanto Castle
Ruins of the church in Monsanto Castle
The castle and walls of Monsanto were classified as one of the National Monuments of Portugal in September 29, 1948. We do not know for sure what the exterior of the fortress was, but probably it looked like its contemporaries, the castles of Tomar and Almourol.
Only standing on the top of the tower of the Monsanto castle, you appreciate the Portuguese saying: He who owns Monsanto, owns the world.
The view of Monsanto Village from the wall of Monsanto Castle
The villagers of Monsanto have their own national holiday. On the third of May, they dress in national costumes, take their amulets—the rag dolls known as marafonas—and with songs go to the castle. A big white pot decorated with flowers “swims” in the middle of the procession. Then this pot flies down from the castle wall. Why? There is a legend.
Many years ago, enemies were besieging the castle for seven years. All this time defenders bravely fended off all attacks but when they were down to only one cow and one sack of grain, sadly they looked at their food understanding that tomorrow they would be forced to give up.
However, one woman proposed a crazy idea: Let’s feed our cow with this grain and drop her on the heads of besiegers. They did so. When the astonished besiegers saw how much grain fell out of the torn cow’s stomach they thought: If their cows eat this much, they still have a lot of food; and they lifted the siege.
Now, the big white pot is a symbol of that cow (poor, but heroic animal).
Unfortunately, reaching Monsanto Village is possible only by car, for example, from the airport of Lisbon (274 km) or the airport of Porto (307 km). However, Portugal has such wonderful roads that your trip from Lisbon, for example, will take about three hours. In the village of Relva, at the foot of Monsanto Mountain, we noted some bus stop signs, but I’m afraid that bus arrives here as often as the ghosts of the Knights Templar. However, there is a big free parking lot here (GPS coordinates: 40.045799-7.116008). The distance from this point to Monsanto Village is about one kilometer. There is one other parking lot in Monsanto—GPS coordinates: 40.040035-7.110274—but it is very small.
You can take the map of the village and the audio guide in the tourist office (Posto do Turismo) of Monsanto Village; however, I am not sure you need it because the village is very small. By the way, in front of that office you will find a very clean, very comfortable, very modern, and very free public toilet.
We had a wonderful lunch (as almost everywhere in Portugal) in a small restaurant under the giant boulder in the middle of the village. You will not miss this boulder-house-restaurant, it is impossible. Everyone takes photos of it.
The famous restaurant under the boulder in Monsanto Village
New constructions are forbidden in Monsanto Village; however, we have seen many semi-abandoned houses, so I am sure it is possible to buy and reconstruct one of them.
Monsanto Village has no hotels but you can rent a room or maybe a villa for several days. I doubt these villas have web sites, so I cannot give you the links. We were there in the low season, in January, so there were few tourists. I think in summer the picture would be totally different; however, it seems that in any season, Monsanto is a very calm place after six o’clock every evening—not one tourist.
The famous Thermal Centre of Monfortinho is located 27 kms from Monsanto Village. Local legends highlight the “healing power” of its waters, and scientists confirm it for dermatological treatments as well as digestive, circulatory, and respiratory diseases. These waters are hyper-mineralized with bicarbonate, sodium, calcium, and magnesium, and possess one of the largest concentrations of silica in Portugal. The temperature of the spring water is 29° C.
All in all, if for happiness and comfortable work you need only fresh mountain air, a picturesque landscape, good cuisine, quiet evenings, and Internet, then the village of Monsanto is the right place.
More about Portugal:
Castles of the Knights Templar in Portugal’s History
Quinta da Regaleira as My Internal World in Sintra
Convent of the Capuchos: a Souvenir in the Forest
February 25, 2014 at 8:58 am
I fully agree with your assessment.
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February 25, 2014 at 11:57 am
I am very glad. Thank you very much.
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February 25, 2014 at 9:57 am
Fascinating read & I always enjoy your terrific photos. Is there any fear now that the boulders at the top could fall on the village below?
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February 25, 2014 at 12:02 pm
Don’t worry, Deanna, no one case for several hundred years.
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February 25, 2014 at 10:19 am
I’m struggling to say what I’m feeling – words seem inadequate. An alien/hobbit town for sure, and one I would love to see in person. Thank you for sharing your adventures with us.
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February 25, 2014 at 12:09 pm
Exactly, Debi.
Alien/hobbit/strange/nice/mystical/cozy…. OK, enough. I miss Monsanto already.
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February 25, 2014 at 3:37 pm
I can certainly see why.
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February 25, 2014 at 12:06 pm
Reblogged this on closetoeighty and commented:
I follow Victor’s blog since I discovered it. I like his interesting and well written presentations of every place he visits and good photos. Hope that my followers will like this post.
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February 25, 2014 at 12:19 pm
Thank you very much, JF. It was a real pleasure to work with this material. Monsanto is lovely place.
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February 25, 2014 at 12:21 pm
You did it well (as you usually do)!
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February 25, 2014 at 12:32 pm
What a place !!! Looks like something straight out of a fantasy book 🙂
Incredible shots and great narrative, as always. Thanks a lot for sharing, Victor 🙂
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February 25, 2014 at 12:37 pm
Yes, but I should say, out of a fantasy film.
Thank you, Sreejith.
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February 25, 2014 at 12:41 pm
The shots with people in frame clearly gives an idea about the scale.
I was really wondering how come the truck reached there on top 🙂
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February 25, 2014 at 12:46 pm
I think this is practice, practice, and practice. I say about the driver.
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February 25, 2014 at 12:47 pm
Yea… I am learning now 🙂
Have a nice day , Victor.
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February 25, 2014 at 12:52 pm
Have a nice day, Sreejith.
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February 25, 2014 at 12:46 pm
A ver unique and beautiful place ..,
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February 25, 2014 at 12:54 pm
Without any doubts.
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February 25, 2014 at 1:58 pm
The way the village “grew” among the rocks is truly amazing. Great photos.
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February 25, 2014 at 6:49 pm
It was very logical solution, and beautiful as we can see.
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February 25, 2014 at 3:11 pm
The boulders are amazing. Great photos and post as always Victor.
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February 25, 2014 at 6:40 pm
Thank you, Sue.
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February 25, 2014 at 6:52 pm
Fascinating and interesting story. Great photos.
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February 25, 2014 at 6:55 pm
Thanks a lot.
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February 26, 2014 at 12:52 am
Excellent post Victor – I am putting this place on my ‘must visit’ list!
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February 26, 2014 at 3:45 am
Thank you, Andrew.
I am sure you will like it. A real time machine.
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February 26, 2014 at 5:06 am
Thanks Victor – where will your travels take you this year?
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February 26, 2014 at 5:20 am
Good question.
Tomorrow, we fly to Venice with our carnival costumes; in April to Malta; in October to the Maldives.
And you?
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February 26, 2014 at 5:35 am
I April to Spain for the Semana Santa, In June to Ireland, later in the summer to Corfu and to Turkey.
Where will you go in Malta? – this is one of my favourite places!
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February 26, 2014 at 5:47 am
Not badly.
In Malta, I will be with my son. Our hotel is located in Sliema. We’d like to explore Valletta, visit Mdina and the Ggantija temple.
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February 26, 2014 at 6:06 am
I recommend a visit to Gozo!
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February 26, 2014 at 6:56 am
That megalithic temple is in Cozo.
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February 26, 2014 at 8:39 am
Bizarrely beautiful, isn’t it, Victor? 🙂 I envy you the carnival in Venice. Last year my daughter was there on honeymoon at carnival time. Beware “high tide”!
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February 26, 2014 at 11:16 am
Jo, the “high tide” is our dream. Can you imagine those wonderful pictures we could make?!
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February 26, 2014 at 11:18 am
🙂 It happened several times while my daughter was there. Enforced attendance at a ball- no way to get home but swim? Not in that gown!
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February 26, 2014 at 11:32 am
We are ready to swim for the sake of good photos 🙂
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February 26, 2014 at 12:48 pm
Incredible! Never saw anything like this before. Thank you.
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February 26, 2014 at 12:54 pm
Thank you for the visit.
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February 27, 2014 at 6:27 am
What an amazing place … never heard of … and I have only been once to Portugal – and that as in Lisbon. Fantastic photo gallery. Thanks for bringing me along.
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February 27, 2014 at 2:22 pm
Well, you have the reason to visit Portugal once more.
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February 27, 2014 at 3:10 pm
Victor, I do .. and it’s on my bucket list.
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February 27, 2014 at 11:21 pm
Sintra is very interesting place too.
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February 28, 2014 at 6:52 am
Thank you for telling, will make a note.
Have a dear blogging friend that visit Portugal so often she can and I have decided to pop down and see her one day.
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March 2, 2014 at 3:28 am
Amazing pictures Victor. I picture out how beautiful the place is. Looking forward on your next post.
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March 2, 2014 at 2:06 pm
Thank you, Ben. I am looking forward too, but I don’t know what the topic will be 🙂 We are in Venice now. Here is the Carnival.
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March 11, 2014 at 4:57 pm
Me and my sweatheart toured portugal two years ago and just loved the place. I read about Monsanto in Jose Saramago’s Journey to Portugal and thank you for posting all the pictures. I must go there someday!
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March 11, 2014 at 10:59 pm
Yes, Ed. Monsanto is the must see place.
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March 23, 2014 at 2:32 pm
Wow, what a neat village! No, definitely not typical of Portugal. Just looking at the photos I would think that is Italy or parts of Istria, Croatia.
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March 23, 2014 at 10:09 pm
Agreed. There are many such villages in France too.
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July 20, 2015 at 4:13 am
Hi Victor! Great pictures! When I saw them, they reminded me of something I visited. Please google “Volax Tinos Greece”, and you will be surprised. A very similar village in the the island of Tinos, in Cyclades.
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July 20, 2015 at 6:48 am
Thank you, Maria. I have seen it on YouTube. These villages are like sisters, but the Greek sister is more refined.
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February 8, 2018 at 4:24 am
Dear Victor,
I read your blog on Monsanto. The pictures are beautifull and the tips seems good. I see you wrote it on 2014.You wrote about the parking, do you think that it is still the same? Only 2 parkings, full in the summer and 1 km klimbing to the center from the parking? I would appreciate your answer
We are travelling on June and are 2 couples about 65 _70 years.
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February 8, 2018 at 4:29 am
Hello Ewa,
We have seen many parking places on the central square of the town of Relva. Then we drove to Monsanto by the street R. da Estrada, then Av. Fernando Ramos Roch, and saw only two parking lots. The first was immediately after sharp turn to the right, and the second one – on the edge of Monsanto. They both were very small, every one for 10-15 cars. They are still there according Google Maps.
I think you will not have chances to find place for your car after Relva in summer, unless you be in Monsanto near 6 o’clock in the morning. We were there in January and all parking lots were empty..
Summer is another matter. I suspect bus or taxi run between Relva an Monsanto, but I am not sure. They were not in January.
I hope it will help.
If you have more questions, don’t hesitate to ask me.
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