Death pursued Antoni always. Two of his brothers died before his birth, and then he continued to bury his other relatives all his life. At 60 years old, he was left alone. Moreover, after he was born, no one believed he would survive. But he did. In childhood, he heard a doctor tell his mother that Antoni would not live long. Again?! The future genius architect Antoni Gaudi did not understand that he had already started to pay dues for the credit of talent granted by the Supreme.
Casa Milà by Antoni Gaudi
The boy survived, but he had always been plagued by various diseases. He had suffered from rheumatism for so long that he was not able to attend school. However, Antoni kept living and expressing a keen interest in design. When finally the sickness stepped back, he and his friends spent a lot of time exploring the ruins of Poblet Monastery near Tarragona, making ambitious plans of reconstructions. Moreover, those plans were fixed on paper, not only in words. Gaudi investigated the ruins in order to understand the way this building had been constructed, and was making numerous calculations.
Oh yes, he was keen on mathematics and geometry, but as for the liberal arts—they were boring. Well, it stands to reason: he was intended to become a great architect, not a writer. However, it did not prevent him from writing a wonderful review article about an applied arts exhibition for the Barcelona newspaper La Renaixença.
Then came the period of his studying in the Barcelona Higher School of Architecture, and the genius of that young man became evident. Introducing him to the examination board his professor said, “Gentlemen, you see either a genius, or a madman.” For Antoni, his own genius was becoming an axiom as well. Very seldom he agreed with somebody’s opinion. He never copied anyone, and acted only in conformity with his understanding. Could it be otherwise? Well, it could—if you’re a mediocrity and the idea of the Sagrada Familia creation in such an unusual execution would never come to your mind.
He was abroad only twice—in Carcassonne and Toulouse, both in France—and was anything but pleased. He never left Spain again. Why? “What for? People should come to us, to Catalonia, and enjoy,” he answered.
It was the time when Antoni was reputed as a dandy. He wore expensive silk top hats and white gloves; in general, he dressed and behaved just as a young man in search of a lady should dress and behave. Yes, there were women in his life, but only two, and both of them announced at the most crucial point that they were already engaged to someone else. Antoni failed to live a life like that of the Russian poet Alexander Pushkin: indulging in carelessness, oeuvre, and feminine attention. He had to pay a much higher price for the credit of his genius. In order to make ends meet he had to take any orders.
Streetlight by Pere Falques.
One day he was engaged in the decoration of a glove-shop window. He created a whole little world, a street scene: the gloves met each other, took a walk, had a rest, talked, and even flirted. Fully engulfed in his work, Antoni had not noticed that his destiny spent half an hour standing behind him and watching the creative process. Then the destiny came up to the owner of the shop and asked him to introduce him to this young man. This time, the destiny stepped forward as the richest citizen of Barcelona Eusebi Güell. Yes, the very same Güell, whose park is well known to any tourist going to Barcelona, although Güell himself is usually hardly known by anyone.
“I’ve been watching you work for quite a long time already.”
“Is it so strange?”
”No, but I see the style of a master. Here is my visiting card. Please come for dinner tonight.”
And that’s it! A flip of a switch, a turn of the steering wheel, and a course is changed sharply.
Antoni Gaudi (left) and Eusebi Güell (right)
According to his contemporaries, Eusebi Güell was a man of a pure taste, who was able to choose and get the very best. As well as that, he had money, a lot of money. Such a great combination occurs very infrequently in the history of mankind: Gaius Cilnius Maecenas, Savva Morozov, Lorenzo de’Medici, Ludovico Sforza… Antoni Gaudi was lucky–the unlimited genius met unlimited funding. What more could an artist wish for?!
It was said that while working under Güell’s orders, Antoni spent so much money that the bookkeeper was endlessly complaining about the enormous bills. Once, señor Güell glanced at the next monstrous bill and said, “Is that all? Antoni may spend as much as he considers necessary.” Nobody ever again bothered Gaudi with financial questions.
The Crypt in the Colonia Cüell
But what was the price? Oh, it was high. Failing to build a family life, Gaudi broke down and abandoned all attempts to find domestic bliss. He immersed himself in his work. Thank God, there was plenty of it. Very often, he was constructing several buildings at once, and during the building of the house El Capricho (Comillals, Cantabria) he managed to shuttle between Cantabria and Barcelona in order to give directions in both places.
Being rather skeptical towards religion early in life, he became extremely devout later in life. Well, it’s rather typical for people who have not managed to satisfy one of the most important human needs. Gaudi stopped looking after himself, his clothes, and home. He even spent the last years of his life living and working in a tiny room under Sagrada Familia.
Probably that’s the reason why none of his mind-blowing buildings could be in any way associated with the expression, “flight of a soul.” Look at the Milano cathedral! This is the flight of a soul: white clothes, white lacy wings–an angel or maybe God himself striving upwards, to the sky. Now look closely at Sagrada Familia by Antoni Gaudi. Notice the details. Everything is flowing down. Snakes, snails, and frogs are creeping down–the creatures that have never been associated with something sublime, but only with hell.
Lace of Duomo
But nevertheless—please, forgive my inconsistency—altogether Sagrada is unbelievably beautiful and one-of-a-kind.
Sagrada Familia
Fragment of Sagrada Familia
Take Casa Batlló. At first sight it reminds one of a sea creature overgrown with shells, but then gradually you realize that the house is “built of bones” resembling human ones. There is such an oppressive atmosphere inside. Probably the reason is the crush of tourists, but you feel uncomfortable in the house. The same impression is produced by Casa Milà: everything is unusual, there is no one straight line, but the house oppresses.
You can buy the tickets to Casa Batlló online.
Casa Batlló by Antoni Gaudi in Barcelona
Inside of Casa Batlló
Casa Milà by Antoni Gaudi in Barcelona
So, Antoni Gaudi kept building his futuristic houses, regularly paying his dues into the celestial chancellery. He was aging rapidly, looking like an adult man at twenty-five, and reminding one of an old man at forty. He made his last payment at the age of 73. On the seventh of June, 1926, Antoni Gaudi came out of his house and was hit by a tram.
Nobody hurried to provide first aid to a shabby oldster, who had only a few nuts in his pockets, but he was transported to the hospital for paupers. Nobody there strove to provide the appropriate treatment either, until the chaplain of Sagrada Familia recognized the great architect, the national treasure of Catalonia and Barcelona, Antoni Gaudi himself. But it was too late. The debt had been paid off. Antoni Gaudi departed this life, having left to Barcelona such an estate that had brought to it the world’s glory: Crypt in the Colonia Güell, Casa Vicens, Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Familia, El Capricho (Comillas, Cantabria), Casa Batlló, Casa Milà… There are 18 buildings altogether and not one outside of Spain.
Take home message: always wear expensive and beautiful clothes—it will not only bring you pleasure, but could save your life.
Streetlight in Barcelona
On the roof of Casa Milà
Fragment of Sagrada Familia
More about Spain:
Sagrada Familia by Antoni Gaudi: The Sand Castle
How Arabic Toledo Revived European Civilization
Monument to Count of Torralva–Castillo de Almodovar del Rio near Cordoba
December 2, 2013 at 8:44 am
This is absolutely fascinating. I shared this blog post with my stepdaughter, who visited Spain for the first time last year and visited Sagrada Famila. She and her fiance, who is from Catalonia, plan a return visit this Christmas – she will enjoy reading this. Thank you so much for sharing all that you know with us.
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December 2, 2013 at 10:31 am
Thank you, Debi.
It would be very interesting for me to read the comments of your stepdaughter here, and especially of her fiance.
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December 3, 2013 at 9:06 am
I will ask her, Victor. She told me about this place and others they visited in Spain and how much she loved the entire experience. I’m not sure if she’s read your blog yet – she hasn’t mentioned it, but it is a work week for some! I’ll get back with you.
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December 2, 2013 at 8:49 am
Niceely written. I was out there a decade ago, and loved his architecture, but never read his full story, besides homeless man dieing by tram. Great Monday morning read.
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December 2, 2013 at 10:34 am
It is very mournful history, is not it? Unfortunately, the fates of geniuses are very similar.
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December 2, 2013 at 8:50 am
Love this Victor! I Love this city too . I posted a few pics of his stuff recently as well. Sagrada is the most amazing site i have seen in Europe.
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December 2, 2013 at 10:37 am
Yes, but I will add, this is one of the most original building of the world.
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December 2, 2013 at 9:14 am
Your photos and stories make one want to get on a plane for Barcelona. Such a sad ending to the story and the assumption people make about a book’s cover.
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December 2, 2013 at 12:02 pm
Barcelona is very original city. You must visit it.
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December 2, 2013 at 9:25 am
I like Barcelona so much 🙂 !!!
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December 2, 2013 at 10:39 am
And who doesn’t like?
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December 2, 2013 at 9:37 am
Always having lived in Barcelona and being a great admirer of Gaudí… I must confess your words moved me. Thank you very very much 😉
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December 2, 2013 at 10:41 am
Thank you, Patricia. Maybe, this post is the best of mine.
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December 2, 2013 at 10:05 am
Very beautiful write-up Victor. so much about Gaudi we never knew.
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December 2, 2013 at 10:43 am
I am very glad. Now, we can call me the enlightener. 🙂
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December 2, 2013 at 10:13 am
Well, I knew I was going to Barcelona for Gaudi, but you just made my day (and trip) with this breezy, amazingly written article.
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December 2, 2013 at 10:47 am
You are right, Barcelona is primarily Gaudi.
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December 2, 2013 at 10:14 am
Very nice write up and lovely picture.
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December 2, 2013 at 10:47 am
Thank you.
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December 2, 2013 at 11:18 am
Casa Batllo is my favourite!
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December 2, 2013 at 11:57 am
Who know what we will see when they finish Sagrada.
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December 2, 2013 at 12:04 pm
But I won’t be here to see it!
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December 2, 2013 at 12:15 pm
No chance at all? 🙂
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December 2, 2013 at 11:18 am
Another superb post and nice shots.
I like your style of travel writing most, well researched and lot of useful details.
I do really enjoy your posts.
Have a nice day.
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December 2, 2013 at 11:58 am
Thank you.
It was a big work.
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December 2, 2013 at 12:13 pm
What a talented man he was! Thanks for sharing these great photos and Gaudi’s story with us.
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December 2, 2013 at 12:16 pm
Yes, but so high price. Sadly.
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December 2, 2013 at 12:47 pm
It’s very well thought and written post with many illustrations. Thank you, Victor.
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December 2, 2013 at 9:53 pm
Thank you very much.
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December 2, 2013 at 2:05 pm
It’s a close call as to who is more important to Barcelona – Gaudi or Messi?
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December 2, 2013 at 9:54 pm
Can you answer this question?
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December 3, 2013 at 3:05 am
I’d say Gaudi for now, but in 50 years’ time we might associate Messi with that city ahead of Gaudi.
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December 3, 2013 at 3:51 am
OK. We’ll see in 50 years.
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December 2, 2013 at 2:43 pm
That is a fascinating story of a great man, thank you for all the research you have put into this post then presented it in such an interesting way with beautiful photos to compliment the story.
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December 3, 2013 at 1:55 am
Thank you for reading. It was very interesting work, to write this post.
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December 2, 2013 at 4:21 pm
My pommepal.com advised me to look at your post.
That is what friends do share pleasures and this post is a pleasure.
Intresting, well writen and illistrated. Thank you Victor.
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December 2, 2013 at 9:58 pm
Thank you and pommepal 🙂
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December 2, 2013 at 10:29 pm
Always a good read. I love Barcelona! One of the cities I intend to live in one day. I love Gaudi’s works, the only one in Barcelona that I am not sure about is actually Sagrada di Familia. Sure its details are amazing, but I’m not sure about the rest. I love his house, it is so cool and surreal. Another artist I love from Barcelona is Joan Miro, have you seen his work?
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December 3, 2013 at 1:52 am
No, I have not seen the works of Miro. His style is not mine. I love Salvador Dali.
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December 6, 2013 at 11:31 am
Thought I’d drop by to see how my internet buddy Victor is doing and what he’s up to when I found this great little gem on Antoni Gaudi. Just so happens that today I’m running a three-part series on Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia. What a coincidence.
Take care, Victor. Nice to see you’re still blogging away with your great photography.
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December 6, 2013 at 12:21 pm
Yes, yes, Doug, I am still alive. 🙂
I have not been inside of Sagrada, so I am waiting for your photos.
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December 6, 2013 at 12:34 pm
I’m running interior shots on Monday and Wednesday next week. I think you’ll be impressed as the Sagrada is even more impressive inside.
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January 24, 2014 at 1:05 pm
This is my first time pay a visit at here and i am actually
impressed to read everthing at single place.
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January 24, 2014 at 11:01 pm
Welcome to Catalonia and Spain.
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February 27, 2014 at 12:18 pm
Great post, very interesting read. You’ve given me a new appreciation for Gaudi’s work!
Frank (bbqboy)
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February 27, 2014 at 2:26 pm
I like his works. They are so interesting and unusual.
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March 22, 2014 at 2:39 pm
Gaudi’s works are so interesting. Thanks for this great background on him as I didn’t actually know much about his life.
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March 22, 2014 at 10:34 pm
It is very interesting life, but only in a work.
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July 2, 2014 at 7:24 am
Such a great and informative post! I’m living in Spain for the summer but I’m going to Barcelona this upcoming weekend. Thanks for all the info!
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July 2, 2014 at 8:41 am
Happy journey, Michael.
And thank you.
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August 17, 2018 at 6:05 am
Absolutely INTERESTING !
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August 17, 2018 at 7:25 am
Many thanks, Elisa.
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August 24, 2018 at 2:52 pm
Poetic with a sense of humor, your article is brilliantly conceived and helpful. Thank you for writing it. You are perceptive to connect the melancholic aspects of Gaudi’s work with his personal proximity to death. Usually he is celebrated for his joyful and eccentric exuberance. When I think about it, it is that very “memento mori” in his work that grounds its more capricious aspects, as in all great art. Your comparison of the Nativity Façade with the Milan cathedral is illuminating in this respect. Material seems to be melting down the lines of the steep triangular entrance so that the towers may rise all the more triumphantly. I expect you have an opinion about the Passion Façade (as well as the rest of the subsequent additions). I am afraid that all I see when I look at it is the great gulf that separates it from Gaudi’s genius. The imposition of that blockheaded and banal cubist aesthetic on Gaudi’s organic sensibilities is a travesty. Its austerity does not offend me; I read somewhere that Gaudi felt compelled to build the Nativity first because he feared the public would be appalled by the total contrast of what he was planning for the other side. But your observations about the Mila and Batllo houses persuade me that a better realization of his intended austerity was quite possible using Gaudi’s organic idiom of bones, skulls, masks, etc.
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August 25, 2018 at 11:48 pm
Hi David,
Thank you very much for such an amazing, thoughtful comment. It was a big pleasure to read it.
I know Gaudi left drawings of interiors and exteriors of Sagrada, and I read that Josep Maria Subirachs made the Passion façade different. Is it better? I prefer not to judge artists. I think they must do what they want to do without regard to our opinion. Otherwise our world would be gray and boring.
I know one thing, every time in Barcelona, I stand in front of the “melting” facade enjoying and recalling my sand castle https://victortravelblog.com/2011/12/20/sagrada-familia-antonio-gaudi/
I even don’t enter into the cathedral. This facade is enough for me.
Thank you again for the excellent comment.
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August 30, 2018 at 10:10 am
Love-love this writing, with those snarky humour. Specifically I love Antoni Gaudí works, the reason why I am here. Nice writing
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August 30, 2018 at 1:17 pm
Many thanks, Casey. I think you should visit Barcelona, and not only for food.
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September 13, 2018 at 5:12 am
🙂 Thank you, I’ve been there, was quite nice visit
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