Without a doubt, it is great to live on a beautiful lonely island in the sea in a comfortable hotel where everything you need is ready for you. You don’t have anything to worry about. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, bar, beach, chaise lounge, shower, SPA, air conditioning system, sport—everything is at your disposal. But this whole infrastructure could be moved to any other place near the sea, and you wouldnt feel the difference. Whatever country, sea, or city it was, what language the locals spoke—it will not be stored in your memory.

View of Rovinj from Sveta Katarina Island
But what if you tried to rent apartments and live there, if not as a native, at least as an explorer who arrived to take a little rest. Lets try? So, follow me, my devoted reader. Today, we have Rovinj, the ancient city on the Croatian Adriatic coast of Istria.
There are plenty of places to stay in medieval Rovinj. We took Villa Cissa (here you can find descriptions and photos of three of its apartments) with all the modern conveniences including an air conditioning system, which is mandatory in the summer in Rovinj. Everything you need for living is provided here just as in your own home. In fact, it is your little home for a couple of weeks. However, try to understand one thing: you live in the center of the medieval town, so don’t expect quietness. Don’t sit inside your apartment. It is better to go out and immerse yourself in the atmosphere of summer relaxation.
So, we took possession of our villa and went on reconnaissance. At first, everything was unknown, and we had some sense of discomfort:
– Where are we going to have breakfast, lunch, or dinner? Moreover, the cooking should be good there, not “for tourists.”
– Where are the laundromat, grocery, and mini markets?
– Where can we exchange money at a good rate? They still use Kuna in Croatia, but soon it will be replaced with Euro.
– Where can I find a quiet, cozy place to write this blog post?
We had plenty of questions which would never have surfaced in an all-inclusive island hotel, but still it was rather interesting.
Then we found a bakery …
… whose aroma was so good that even if you had not known of its existence, you would not have passed it by. They have the freshest pastries: the Croatian layer cake with cheese, pizza (its a heretical thought, but it seems like their pizza is even tastier than Italys), poppy seed rolls, confiture, cheese, cottage cheese, and bread which is not simply tasty, but very tasty. In short, if youre overweight or diabetic, you should not enter this bakery.
Then we found a restaurant
To be more exact, the host of the villa gave us a visiting card of a restaurant and told us that their chef is Croatian and an expert in cooking meat and fish. You might know how it usually happens in Turkey, Greece, or Egypt: a guide or a porter in your hotel assures you that he knows the best restaurant where only the locals eat, and where the best dishes in the city are served. You go there and after the first attempt realize that he simply sent you to his relative who cannot cook at all.
Here in Rovinj, such a recommendation looked the same, thats why we did not go to the trattoria of Sidro (A. Rismondo, 14) immediately, but tried to eat in other restaurants which can be found at every step. When the results did not impress us, we went to Sidro and—voila!—the steak with truffle sauce was marvelous. We have not been deceived! Well, the sauce is no great wonder for us. We are more interested in the way they cook the meat, and we enjoyed a real pleasure.
The last time we ate such perfectly cooked meat was a year ago in Croatia. Yes, again in Croatia, but in the city of Trogir, in the canoba Capo.

Steak with champignons sause in trattoria Sidro

A steak with truffle sauce in the trattoria Sidro

Trattoria Sidro in Rovinj
With this, our experiments came to an end. We left our attempts to find the meat-cooking master in Rovinj. What for, if we already have found one?
Then we found the old Rovinj

The Venetian side of the medieval Rovinj
Probably, the old quarter of Rovinj wont impress you at first glance. Sure enough, its not a refined Trogir; there are ragged walls, shabby window shutters, and chipped paint here. Rovinj provides the greatest impression from the sea or from the neighboring islands (we spent several days in one of them, Sveta Katarina), but when you move yourself inside this UNESCO World Heritage site, you wonder at its neglected condition.
One possible explanation is Italians. About 20% of the population of Rovinj are Italians, although this percentage does not exceed five in other Croatian regions. Italians neglect of facades of their buildings is quite well known; its enough to take any old Italian city and compare, for example, with Belgian Bruges. However, maybe this is what gives some special charm to Italy and its former province, Istria. Would the total reconstruction of the buildings’ facades be a complete disaster for Rovinj? Quite possible.

An exit to the sea in the Venetian part of Rovinj
Living in the old city, we gradually started to discover it by parts, tiny parts. Here, somebody decorated the staircase with seashells; there, somebody made a picturesque entry to the sea and a tourist attraction at the same time; and there, somebody put some pillows on the street steps for extra seating, and an original bar was set up.

A porch decorated with seashells

Night view of Rovinj
From the sea, Rovinj tries to look like the famous Mont Saint-Michel in France—stately and mystical—but it is cozy, noisy, and very alive inside.

The bell tower of the Church of St. Euphemia, the master copy of the bell tower of St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice, Italy.

The very old villa in the medieval part of Rovinj

Souvenirs with lavender
Then we found a cliff
People come to Rovinj not only for ancient streets and buildings, but also to swim and tan. Of course, you wont find the Maldives beaches with white sand here, only cliffs are at your disposal. People settle themselves in small plain spots (often artificial) to relax among the crowd.

The rocky shore of Rovinj
However, you can find some more or less secluded places, for example, some plain and flat stone among impassable sharp stones. Probably, due to this inaccessibility, “our” stone always was free, and we went there to tan and swim every morning and evening. Moreover, all the blog posts about the vacation in Rovinj were written there.
Here you have the beautiful emerald water and wonderful sharp stones guarding this water, just as you have along the whole coast of Croatia. It is easy to get into the sea: just jump from a cliff, but to come out of the water you need to wear special footwear (which is being sold here at every corner, but simple sandals will also be enough) and have elementary rock-climbing skills.

The seaview from “our” cliff in Rovinj
This place is quiet and cozy. It provides a perfect view including the tiny island which persistently peeked in on half of my shots made in Rovinj. It is uninhabited, although it could become the Croatian Mont Saint-Michael if some monks decided to build a church on it. I was obsessed with the thought of buying it and building a medieval castle there: one more attraction for the tourists and a benefit for the city at the same time. The impression is that one of the most memorable images of Rovinj will be connected with this islet, because I will never be able to buy it and build a medieval castle on it.

The small uninhabited island in front of Rovinj

View of Sveta Katarina island from the belfry of the Church of St. Euphemia
I am sure you remember some moments of your life when you caught yourself thinking: God, I feel so good. In Rovinj, the number of such moments per unit of time was the highest in my life after Bruges. I call it the “density of happiness” index. However, Rovinj has great advantages over Bruges: the wonderful warm climate; tasty cuisine; and of course the sea; plus, a lot of beautiful people.
Come see for yourself
More about Croatia:
How to Visit Dubrovnik, Croatia, in Snow
Cozy Prison at Spanjola Fortress of Hvar
Facts in Common Between the White House and the Diocletian Palace
September 9, 2013 at 10:30 am
What a fabulous place to visit. The food is a bonus. But so many beautiful buildings. I like the photo just after the one that shows the entrance to the sea where the staircase has plant pots on it.
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September 9, 2013 at 11:55 am
Unfortunately, this is only one so original entrance to the sea in Rovinj. This is not Venice, but very similar.
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September 9, 2013 at 10:36 am
Nice to see Rovinj again after having visited more than twenty years ago. Spasibo 😀
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September 9, 2013 at 11:52 am
Twenty years?! Where you have been all this time? Rovinj is waiting for you 🙂
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September 9, 2013 at 11:56 am
They still sell Malvazija there? We used to get a bottle of that then go up to St E’s before hitting the town 😀
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September 9, 2013 at 12:13 pm
Oh, yes. We was drinking only it, white San Tommaso, and cold. Excuse me, my stomach, but we had two bottles in a day.
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September 9, 2013 at 12:16 pm
😀 Now I have to go back!
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September 9, 2013 at 12:18 pm
Yes, me too.
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September 9, 2013 at 4:53 pm
great post and photos, you even managed to photograph the Royal Clipper moored in the bay!
never been to Rovinj, looks half-Croatian, but also very colourful like quite a lot of Italian coastal villages. .
looks like a great place to visit. Compliments again for another great post, Victor!
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September 10, 2013 at 8:32 pm
Of course. Istria was the part of the Venetian republic many years, unlike Trogir or Dubrovnik.
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September 9, 2013 at 9:25 pm
Great Post, Victor. Stunning place and nice photos.Really enjoyed 🙂
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September 10, 2013 at 8:28 pm
Thank you, Sreejith.
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September 10, 2013 at 2:06 pm
Such an incredible place to stop by for few days. I think I’ll spend some time in the bakery, I’m addicted to them and love the bakery’s food too much. Thanks for sharing, I noted down this pretty place 🙂
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September 10, 2013 at 8:26 pm
Probably, bakery is attractive place in any country of the world.
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September 14, 2013 at 5:31 am
My favorite place where I’ve been on holiday many times 🙂
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September 14, 2013 at 5:54 am
One of my favorite places now.
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September 16, 2013 at 3:30 am
I have not been to Rovinj, but after reading your post I’m already in love with this place. I love the scenery and its local cuisine. Everything seems to be so healthy and fresh 🙂 – looks like a perfect summer destination 🙂
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September 16, 2013 at 6:00 am
Do not even doubt, it is; and you don’t need visa, because Croatia is in Schengen now.
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September 16, 2013 at 3:36 pm
This is a place I’ve wanted to visit for 10 years or more. It must surely be time I went! Thank you for your lovely tour. I’m going back to check out those apartments. 🙂
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May 24, 2015 at 1:10 am
Of course, Jo, don’t postpone it.
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September 16, 2013 at 9:28 pm
Thanks for sharing all these lovely pics. I feel as if I have traveled through them and by reading your post.
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May 24, 2015 at 1:10 am
Thank you very much. I am very glad.
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September 22, 2013 at 2:47 pm
We spent several months in Trogir earlier this year, but never made it up to Rovinj. It along with Pula and Zadar are still on our must-see list. Do you make regular visits to Croatia, Victor?
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September 22, 2013 at 11:19 pm
If once in a year can be called “regular”, then yes. 🙂
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May 15, 2014 at 7:07 pm
thanks for your apritiation of our food at Sidro 🙂
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May 15, 2014 at 11:00 pm
You deserved it.
I am missing your steaks all the time.
Thank you very much.
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January 31, 2016 at 11:38 am
If you planing your vacation in Rovinj, the Apartments Nebuloza is the best choice, just google it… and Sidro is in top 10 restourants, just ask the locals where to go 🙂
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January 31, 2016 at 12:53 pm
Thank you. I will think about it.
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September 11, 2016 at 5:46 pm
We have just returned from our first visit to Rovinj…..we have to agree with all your comments of the place. We want to return very soon and can’t believe we have been missing out for so long..Just 2 hours away from the UK too…and Italian ice cream to buy on every street..delicious for around £1….
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September 11, 2016 at 11:14 pm
I am really happy for you, Helen.
Rovinj is one of my favorite cities on Adriatic. However, try to visit other coastal cities, Trogir, Split, Dubrovnik, Budva, Herceg Novi, Kotor to compare.
Thank you.
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