Fairest among women, Venice, formerly powerful and rich. You are still impressive, Lady Venice, but only from a distance.
The years pass rapidly, your skin withers, becomes more parched and thin, and finally drops off in lumps of plaster. Meanwhile, just as time ages all women, water wears on you more and more with every year, and your cosmetologist is already losing his patience in despair. There are plenty of younger potential clients around.
Year after year, your population decreases by several thousands. Those remaining try to retrieve the last profit from your former glory, setting unthinkable prices for half an hour’s travel on a gondola along the muddy channels, singing songs for your guests, blowing glassware for them, and carefully bringing the organized tourists to the places which still preserve their facades. Such and such person once lived here and there. Notice, not “live now,” but “once lived.”
A nasty damp mold creeps up from the stairs to the gorgeous snow-white marble of your Procuration building, and no cosmetic aids are able to stop it, because it has powerful allies—time and salty humidity.
You are trying to reanimate your former glory. You organized the carnival, but time and water are inexorable. A curious traveller needs only to get off the beaten touristic paths to see another side of sinking Venice. Your teeth are crippled by age and the sea, and there is no more strength, money, or desire to renew them. But even with all of this, your atmosphere is still filled with charm.
People flatter you, Lady Venice, admire you, but you understand that it’s only out of courtesy, because to admire you is fashionable. You know for sure the past is dead. You sadly look at everyone from the height of your greatness, but still take the compliments–because you are a Woman and will be a Woman even under forty meters of turbid and salty water.
You still cook wonderfully, and are happy not only to feed your loyal admirers, but to feed them tasty fare. You are a real Italian.
You used to be one of the most beautiful and richest ladies in Europe, but Paris, Vienna, and Rome had better luck. They were not flooded twice a year, and their feet were standing not in a toxic green solution, while you struggled with this lagoon again and again. But there is a limit.
You see some remnants of the streets and walls of the great men: Mycenae, Beng Mealea, and Machu Picchu, but what will you, sinking/dying Lady Venice, leave behind? Only water—and millions of pictures taken by several generations of admiring travellers.
Did you know?
The historic center of Venice is located on the 118 islands of the Venetian Lagoon and separated by 150 canals with about 400 bridges. The most famous bridges are Realto and Bridge of Sighs.
Venice is built on piles of larch. This tree is almost doesn’t rot in the water. Part of these piles brought from Russia.
Venice and the Venetian Lagoon included in the World Heritage List, as St. Petersburg which is a sister-city of Venice.
Over the passed century, Venice sank on 23 cm. According to scientists, the city may become uninhabitable already in 2028.
In 828, the stolen in Alexandria relics of St. Mark were moved to Venice and placed in a specially constructed for this cathedral which has become one of the main attractions of the city.
The famous Italian adventurer, traveler, and writer, Casanova lived in Calle di Ca Malipiero, 3082, of San Samuele district of Venice.
According to contemporaries, the convents of Venice did not accept unattractive (and especially with any physical defects) girls.
Venice was a republic and never had vassal relations between citizens. This is unique for medieval Europe.
There are 425 gondoliers in Venice, and this number does not change regardless of retirement and/or the arrival of new members.
One gondola ride costs about 100-120 Euros per 30-45 minute. A gondola takes no more than six passengers.
Population of the old part of Venice is 100,000 people, but the number of tourists is 25 million every year.
More about Italy
Italian Cuisine: Our Gastronomic Feat in Florence
Our “Thorny” Way to Lake Maggiore in Italy
My God, How I Love Italy!
Lovely post and pictures. Back from second long journey to Venice in hot August – each day we made quick visit to San Marco area, to convince ourselves that Venice is crowdy. And spent all our days in less visited corners. So it turned out to be the most serene and quiet place in the world. One week without traffic-noice – heaven on earth! Swimming in Lido was just a 40 minutes away by vaporetto from our hotel in pretty Miracoli area, so we did not suffer from heat also. Donizetti opera in La Fenice. As you said about Italy, I must add “God! I love Venice!”. Especially in August.
By the way – why not posts about St.Petersburg? Do you live there and do not have to visit it like tourist?
Best regards from Tallinn again
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Thank you, Rita.
Summer is not the best time for travelling Europe, but you found a good decision.
I have been to St.Petersburg many times. People there are better than in Moscow, but the city… Desire to write something about it did not arise. Tallinn is much more interesting and always was.
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Thank you, Victor!
Yes, Tallinn is great place to live, but if you love art and hate flying, then St.Petersburg is a real jewel-box, especially in July – Russian museum alone is worth whole trip. Friends, that I have managed to talk in and toured them around, have been satisfied and always willing to go again. Sincerely – three trips and not a single thing to nag about. Of course, speaking fluent russian comes handy. By the way – good blog from Irina about Prague, I’ ll leave it on not-to-do shelf! But Venice like we did this time (half of the trip on lagoon-water and Lido Beach) will be repeated, though I agree very much with your blog but old lady showed to us such a lovely and gentle face that we must go back.
May your trips be successful!
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I am agree, the State Russian Museum and the Hermitage Museum are worth of visiting. Very rich collections. In fact, St. Petersburg is only one city which I recommend to visit in Russia.
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The good news is I think Venice can be saved. There has apparently been some “muddying of the waters,” engineering systems not being put into place to save Venice because from what I can tell the mayor Georgio Orsoni and many others in government were stealing millions from the project fund and in all probability “stalling” the progress which is being installed in stages because of funding. Talk about “cutting your nose off to spite your face” I guess some people are greedy to satisfy only themselves and could care less if the country looses billions in tourist dollars should Venice becomes uninhabitable!
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What can I say? Idiots!
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I have been to Venice 4 times, and I will never get sick of it. It’s like being on a film set, and I love seeing photos of the city from other people. You have captured so much colour.
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I will refresh my impressions after two weeks, during the carnival.
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Wow! Great pics!
Frank (bbqboy)
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Thank you, Frank.
I do my best.
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Beautiful post!
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I hope it is poetical.
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Definitely!
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I love this city even though it’s true that time is changing its feature, but that is the reason why people love this city: because it is going to die sooner or later (hopefully in a light year 🙂
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We must be hurry. Next year we go to Venice Carnival. I have bought the medieval costume. 🙂
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Beautifully written. And great photos. I like how you capture that, in sum, the decay Venice is experiencing enhances her charms rather than diminishing them. It’s an inherent contradiction that, until you experience it in person, is hard to explain…but once you go, makes perfect sense.
Degeneration leading to regeneration and wonder. Love it!
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Thank you.
I wish good luck to your young Italian blog.
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Thanks! We’ve been around forever but are new to this travel blogging WordPress thing…am enjoying reading about everyone’s adventures. Look forward to more of your insights!
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What a beautiful and bitter-sweet way to talk about her! I enjoyed it a lot through your eyes. Thanks!
Yulia 🙂
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Thank you. Now you only have to visit her in person.
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How did I get to your blog? I don’t know, but I like what I saw and read. I will be in Venice (ancient temptress) for 3 months early next year. You have inspired me to make a trip to Bologna, and then to Dozza, what a gem of a town. Thank you for your very personal touches, they are a breath of fresh air.
g’day from Australia. Yvonne
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Thank you very much, Yvonne, and I wish you good journey!
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Thank you, Seleste. The comments like yours are the most valuable for any blogger. My conception is not only to tell about any visited place but to transfer what I was feeling in that particular moment in that particular place. And I try.
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Hi Victor! I really appreciate the job that you’ve done with your photos. They catch the decadence and magic light of Venice.
You look like a very cultivated traveller. I like how you have developed your own personal experience with Venice.
As an Italian madly in love with that city, I think that it’s very hard to understand how the charm of Venice works.
In an instant you are caught! Walking in its streets, discovering its artistic treasures and sailing in
its canals gives you butterflies in your stomach. But as with every passion, you must nurture it with
respect and quality time…
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I was also very sad to see how Venice is crumbling. I’m so glad to have visited her twice now. I hope that she can be patched up for future generations to come. Love your photography and the way you write.
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We plan to visit Venice second time, for Carnival.
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I am in love with the 3rd, 4th and 5th photo…You captured exactly how I picture Venice to be when I imagine being there; it is going to be the 1st place I visit overseas 🙂
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Welcome to Europe 🙂
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After visiting Venice years ago, you find for such a small place you never really have enough time to explore the winding streets, the hidden cafes and the timeless beauty of this amazing place. I’ll be back for sure!
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I agree completely.
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Still it is a place of magic where dreams appear in the mist and footsteps echo on the cobblestones. I feel that if I had missed Venice , there would be an empty place in my heart.
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We missed too and gonna repeat our visit.
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Awesome photographs. Like the perspective of addressing the city. (what lens did you use?)
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Very simple lens. Only amateur cameras.
Thank you.
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Your photos are as beautiful as your writing, I love visiting Venice, and I feel as if I have visited it once more! thanks for sharing your work.
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Thank you very much.
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The photos are amazing. Your post is so beautifully sad. Thank you for sharing. I hope I get to see her someday.
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I hope too. She is waiting you.
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Enjoyed this post very much! Thanks for sharing, and thanks also for visiting my blog.
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Thank you for the visit.
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Venice. This will the top of my travel list! Thanks for sharing..
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I am sure it will be very interesting travel list.
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Having read Venice, the Tourist Maze, it was especially interesting to read/look at this post. Thanks for that!
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Thank you for the visit.
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Wonderful words and photos as always, Victor. I enjoy your blog so much I nominated you for the Versatile Bloggers award to day. Thank you for sharing your travels with us. Good luck.
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Thank you, Marion.
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Gorgeous photos and evocative text, Victor. It is sad, the future of Venice. Inevitable?
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I said almost the same thing. I’m afraid the downfall of Venice is inevitable as it slowly succumbs to the ravages of time and the sea.
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I am afraid, yes, Sophie.
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I came across this post after seeing that you had liked my post on the gardens at the Bellagio. Your post is so tragically beautiful that I feel a renewed urgency to see Venice before she is forever lost. Thanks for sharing!
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Hurry up. Venice is one of those places in the world that you want to visit at least once.
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A very evocative post, Victor. Your photos and words weave a wonderful and terrible image of decline. I felt saddened and also glad that I have seen Venice in previous times.
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I hope to see it next year.
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Beautiful and sad. I was there as a kid, can’t remember the ugliness. Should I leave it like that or revisit?
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Revisit, of course! Before it will be too late.
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Thanks for taking us along with you!
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Hm… Very original comment. Thank you for being with me 🙂
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Thanks for the closeup journey… I love Venice! 😉
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The same with me.
Thank you.
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Great story Victor with excellent images. I really felt that I was back in Venice again.
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Thank you for the reading. A pity that I can’t write poetry.
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Beautiful homage Victor! I feel the sorrow too! We went a long time ago and dream of returning sometime. Love the photos!
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All is in your hand.
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Absolutely beautiful pictures! I love Venice and after a recent visit there, it has become one of those places I would gladly return. Yumy on the food pictures too.
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Thank you, Mary.
I update the photos with every visit to the sinking Venice.
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Great photos! Like them. You must have gotten up very early to see the San Marko square so empty!;)
And the state of the buildings’ facades, you know, when we were in Italy I got a feeling that this is just the Italian style not to do anything with them.
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No, this is not Italian style. Florence, Sienna and San Gimignano are very different.
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Ok, won’t argue. We just saw a lot of buildings in need of renovation while travelling Venice-Verona-Milan and then to Switzerland, so I stopped being surprised at it after all:))
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One more detail, they like to dry a linen under the windows.
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I only saw these pictures on the movies. How I wish I could visit this place soon.
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Be careful with your wishes, they could become a reality, and you will fall in love with Venice.
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hahahaha how i wish victor.
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What poetry! It was wonderful to read along and have the pictures too. An excellent visual & mental blog post!
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Thank you, Rachel. How to write about Venice differently than romantically?
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Nice images, don’t have Venice on my list maybe after Rome and Florence. I have
heard also it is not a great place for tourists.
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Why?
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My wife read an article written by the “mayor” of Venice saying that tourists should go someplace else. She has also heard that it is dirty an unfriendly. For me it is a priority thing. My wife has never been to Florence and neither of us have been to Rome or Southern Italy so that will probably be our next try to Italy. However, we plan to go to South Africa, Spain and Scandinavia before we go back to Italy. At 67, well how much more time to any of us have?
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You must see Florence or San Gimignano, for example. And Venice too, but not in summer. Don’t forget Rome.
I don’t believe that the Italians are not friendly somewhere. Report me your impressions, please.
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A great lady, Victor? Never! Survive, thrive – at any costs – that’s not the hallmark of a lady, no, but of a ravishing beauty – beguiling, seductive … For me, she’s a fantasy, a wild and vivid fantasy – the manifestation of man’s most fervid dreams, of power, and corruption, greed and hedonism.
But you know I love your elegy, Victor – the homage you pay to our mistress – your words, and your choice of photographs true to its theme. Bravo!
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Thank you for the bright quotation from your post about Venice – very strong post. I like your style.
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So you’re not going to argue with me, Victor? You agree she’s always been a wanton woman, our mistress?
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What for to argue? Every one has privat opinion and impression. Here is mine.
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Good man – loyal to the end:)
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I love Venice. It is such an awesome place to visit. The food, the culture, the setting, the architecture. Absolutely fantastic.
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Absolutely. I agree.
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Such beautiful pictures you have captured the feeling of decay and desolation behind the once vibrant city. The photo of the empty gondolas tied up beside the empty tables of the cafe makes a very strong statement.
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Yes, my wife is very proud of this shot. It is her work. Thank You.
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Fantastic photos Victor. Food looked great too!
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You bet it taste too.
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I love Venice…Great shots Victor..Thanks!
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Great city gives great photos.
Thank you.
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Great pictures Victor – reminded me of my visit there and my ride in a gondola – thanks!
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I have read your posts about Venice and next time we’ll be living like you inside the city and visit Burano.
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Reblogged this and commented:
Awesome photos of Venice. It is an interesting take on the state of the city of Venice, though. I think it is a city that is alive thru history. You can feel it around you when you are there….
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You are right; however, I think one can feels the history everywhere in Italy. The same with Greece.
Thank you, Tisha
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Reblogged this on Found Round & About and commented:
Awesome photos of Venice!!!
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HI Victor, I love Venice so much! It was one of my favorite cities that I visited in Italy. Rome was my second. Your pictures are absolutely amazing! It was nice to see what I saw a few years ago, nice memories came back to me. I see you have a twitter, I’ll be more than happy to follow you! This is mine: @adri_thoughts
Adriana
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Venice and Rome, a woman and a man – good choice.
Thank you, Adri.
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What a lovely, poignant tribute to a dying beauty.
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Thank you, Susie.
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I love your description of Venice, a city I love and think is beautiful.
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I love it too.
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Wonderful impressions of Venice! 🙂
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But a little sad. I am afraid to save Venice is impossible 😦
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You can see the beauty of it now & have the memories of it later, so I don’t think it s sad. Everything ends one day…
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So true and so sad. Only a few more generations will get to experience Venice. The fact that it is wasting away makes visiting even more special.
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That’s why we have plans to visit it again and again.
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Victor, such a lovely post and tribute to a beautiful lady.
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Like a love story.
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I felt like reading Shakespeare with how you describe Lady Venice! Made me sad somehow…
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Oh, this is very strong comparison! 🙂 Thank You.
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Great Pics!!
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And story, I hope.
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